Bukit Lawang, more than just Orangutan

Here is my guide to ensure you maximise your visit to Bukit Lawang, a gem in Northern Sumatra.

In this guide, I’ll cover your transport options, accommodation, eating out, activities and more! 

Here are some quick links so you can jump ahead

History

Bukit Lawang is now known as a tourist village on the bank of the Bahorok River in the Northern Sumatra province of Indonesia. Situated 86km from Medan (Sumtras capital), where you will arrive. Bukit Lawang is known as the largest animal sanctuary of Sumatran orangutans (around 5,000 orangutans occupy the area) and also the main access point to the Gunung Leuser National Park from the east side.

The Bukit Lawang Rehabilitation Centre for Orangutans was founded in 1973 by two Swiss women. Its main purpose was to preserve the decreasing number of orangutan population due to hunting, trading and deforestation. The centre closed in 2002 as the place was getting too many visitors, unsuitable for animal rehabilitation.

A flash flood hit Bukit Lawang on 2 November 2003. The disaster destroyed the local tourist resorts, 239 people including 5 tourists were killed, and around 1,400 locals lost their homes. Local authorities and an environmental NGO attributed it to illegal logging Thanks to several international cooperation agencies, the village was rebuilt and re-opened again in July 2004. The area is slowly regenerating and offers the chance to see an abundance of wildlife.

Transport – arrival and getting around

You will likely be arriving from Medan, there are two main ways to get to Bukit Lawang, there are orange buses that run every 20mins or so from Medans Pinang Baris Terminal, and takes around 4hrs, cheap, sweaty and can be quite arduous at times, the roads are, interesting in places, not to mention the traffic and driving style…

A better alternative if you have the budget ($20) would be to take a Grab taxi. You won’t miss out on any of the fun like crazy drivers, cows on the road, kids and craters to negotiate, but you will be more comfortable and can ask the driver to stop and sample some local food on the way! 

Once you are there, the best way to get around is by becaks, a kind of motorbike/sidecar taxi affair, and experience on its own! They are fairly cheap, don’t be afraid to haggle a little, but also don’t stress over a few rupees that may mean a family can eat well that night. Some accommodations have cycles you can hire, take care on the motorbike busy roads

Accommodation

I enjoyed staying a little bit out of the centre, I’ll come back to that, just to explain the local situation. Some of the land in and around Bukwit Lawang is owned privately, you will see this, as what is built on the private land is usually well-built and maintained. There are areas of Government-owned land that anyone can build on for a small rent, but they are always at risk of being moved on or closed down so that property tends to be makeshift and on the whole, a lot less cared for, litter and waste often part of the situation. 

I stayed in a small village called Landbow (meaning Agriculture) around 3km from the centre of Bukit, it was the perfect compromise. Super relaxing, set amongst rice paddies, and views of the National Park and volcanoes, but a few mins away from the centre of Bukit.

Here are a few suggestions for accommodation.

Quiet – Ambow Homestay, super affordable, and a great option if you want to be away from the bustle of the centre, aircon huts with huge comfy beds and private bathrooms, beautiful gardens and local, fresh food on tap! Staying at a homestay is a great way to experience local ways of life and learn about traditions. 

In the Centre but still relaxed – Eco Lodge, set amid tropical, riverside jungle bordering Gunung Leuser National Park, this laid-back lodge is a minute’s walk from the Sumatran Jungle. This provides an opportunity to be immersed in the rainforest environment while directly contributing to the conservation of the critically endangered Sumatran orangutan. 

Riverside – Sam’s Place, facing the jungle, across from the river, this family owned and run place is an ideal location if you want to be ‘on the strip’ not meaning it is crazy lively or super noisy, the layout is a strip of shops, hostels and restaurants along the river. Accessed by a path that’s undulating in places, accommodation will often help with transporting your bags if required. Chances of seeing an Orangutan from your room window.

Food & Drink

There are numerous good places to eat around Bukit, most are attached to accommodation of some kind. A good mix of local dishes and options for those craving some Western-type food. 

Sam’s Place – Great local dishes at affordable prices, also a nice place to hang out and watch the people rafting down the river

Nature’s Soul – a cosy café & bakery directly on the river, enjoy delicious sourdough bread buns or tasty cinnamon rolls

Wild River Cafe – the aubergine Sambal is delicious (if you’re new to Indonesian food you may choose to go for lightly spiced) Great vegan and veggies options and many of the dishes are gluten-free, great value

Best Coffee – Natures Soul, the best coffee in the area

Things to do in Bukit Lawang

Jungle trekking is the obvious one, to access the Gunung Lesuer National Park, you need a guide by law. Now I like to head off on my own, without a guide, but the jungle is one place you don’t wanna get lost, you probably won’t have phone signal most of the time so forget Google Maps, and to be honest, the jungle is so dense, you can be going round in circles, it all looks the same! On top of that, a GOOD local guide will give you loads of information about the history, wildlife, plants and much more, well worth the cost, and you’re supporting the local community, as travellers it’s good to give back.

A company I recommend using is Sumatra Orangutan Tours. Whatsapp +6285276492509. Ask for ‘Timizi’ as your guide, you won’t go wrong, he has heaps of jungle knowledge. Treks start from 1 to as many days as you like. If you go on a multi-day trek, don’t expect the jungle camp to be idyllic, more likely in a muddy shelter, with a plastic tarp over the top and a few palm leaves, the jungle really does come ‘alive’ at night so it’s worth doing if you haven’t before. I will add some essential items you will need at the bottom of the page. 

Rafting – Often paired with a jungle trek, it is a fun way to get back to Bukit from further up the jungle. One thing to note, ‘rafts’ are basically old wagon innertubes tied together, and your guide will use a stick to guide you down the river. Depending on river levels, this can be quite sketchy, and I saw a lot of companies who didn’t provide life jackets, not a great idea if you aren’t a strong swimmer and comfortable in fast-moving water..

Sumatran Village Tour – usually by motorbike or tuk-tuk, you will visit local rubber and cacao plantations where you can see how products are grown, processed and used. You will also visit small factories where tofu and brown sugar are made. Enjoy a real spicy Indonesian lunch, consisting of rice, curries and meat/fish in a ‘warung’ (traditional café/restaurant). Have a go at eating like the locals, with your right hand.. After lunch, you will visit some rice paddies and learn how rice is being grown and processed. As well as a visit to a local school and market. This type of tour gives a flavour of how people live and survive in Sumatra.

Mountain Bike Ride – Take to two wheels under your own steam, and there will be lots of that in the humidity! A fun way to get around, see and smell local delights, visit some villages like above, and maybe take a refreshing dip in the smaller river just out of town, watch out for the monitor lizards drifting downstream, although they will bail as soon as you spot them, so no need to worry.

Summary

I would recommend 3-4 days in Bukit Lawang, plus however many days you will be on a jungle trek, so 3-day trek and 3 nights in town, 6 in total. 

The people of Bukit are beautiful and very friendly, they are used to seeing and dealing with tourists, unlike a large part of Sumatra, so you can feel more relaxed as you mooch around. Prices are generally very cheap, please bear this in mind and tip what you can when you receive good service and enjoy the local hospitality.

Things to consider

In western terms, In places Bukit is a bit of a sad sight, a lot of litter and plastic strewn about, fires burning plastics etc, but we have to remember, places like this don’t have local authority services like waste collections etc, let alone hot running water, a lot of people use the irrigation system for the rice fields to wash themselves, clothing and kitchenware, it’s a tough environment for most, but they do the best they can and always a have a beautiful smile on thor face. 

There are no ATMs in Bukit Lawang so bring cash for your stay. The nearest ATM is in Bohorok (12km).  You can sometimes get money at the mini-mart, usually costing around 4%

There is no Medical Care in Bukit Lawang – you will have to get a taxi or becak to the nearest facility.

Trekking

If you plan on doing a trek, and that’s most likely why you will be there, you must be fit and healthy, the jungle is steep in places, and sometimes you are up and down steep inclines for some time, add to that the heat, humidity and all kinds of insects, It can soon become claustrophobic and energy sapping. Ideally, you will wear light clothing, have a loose long-sleeve option, and definitely long trousers and socks that you can tuck the trousers in to help keep the leeches out. Bug spray. Sunscreen. A lightweight backpack with spare clothing, water and creams etc, A good hat as the sun can still get at you. Top tip, bug spray your socks to further deter leeches. Your guides should have your sleeping essentials, but swimwear and a towel are handy to have, use trainers with good grip, it can be wet and slippery. Don’t open your backpack near monkeys or wildlife as they may go for it, thinking you have food for them, follow what your guide says and be respectful of the environment and its inhabitants, oh and don’t forget to have fun, hot, sweaty fun!  If you are looking for a full tour solution, give the Murad family a go. Murad is a local, ex-guide, who now has a great team of guides, accommodation, tours, arrange transport to and from Bukit as well as transport whilst you are there. Food, packed lunches, authentic meals, basically anything you need leading up to and while staying in the area. Contact Murad +6285276492509 via WhatsApp – super cheap also!

Final thoughts..

Should I go to Bukit Lawang, absolutely, one of the last places to see Orangutan in the wild, with jungle treks that are within easy reach, low prices, traditional food, and genuine cultural experiences. I am sure, that whatever you do in Bukit Lawang, the scenery and beautiful people will make your experience unforgettable, soak up all this place has to offer! Drop me a comment below on how you found it.